Dessert Republic sees a revolution

Not everyone was aware of the original owner’s plan to sell the cafe so learning about the purchase surprised a lot of people. What customers thought of the end of Main Street’s Hong Kong patisserie was the result of monthslong escrow according to Norman Mo, the cafe’s new owner.

Mo is a San Francisco entrepreneur and had experience managing a food business. Like other regulars, he dined at Dessert Republic enough that he knew about his predecessor’s tradition of closing the shop and taking a vacation at the end of the year. When he heard from a friend it was for sale, he decided to take on this new business venture and contacted the agent.

While much remains the same, the cafe no longer lists their famous molecular desserts such as tiramisu pot and cheesecake bowl or their lighter options like crepes. However, there were new savory offerings like SPAM musubi and siu mai and heavier meals like chicken katsu rice plate, chow fun, and noodle soups on the updated menu. 

With regards to the interior, Mo knows from a business standpoint removing the shop’s Cantonese aesthetic will lose its appeal and magic for patrons drawn to its murals and decorations. Other than moving the chairs and tables, he left the paintings of Hong Kong night markets and the Chinese calligraphies untouched since the interior brings diners from the Asian community closer to their home countries.

“They were trying to sell it to somebody who was gonna change the whole concept,” Mo said. “I’ve been here before. I like the history of this place. I just wanna keep it.”

Apart from the east-meets-west attraction that keeps customers coming back —  from Hong Kong sweet tofu, puddings and gooey sesame pastes to ice cream and fried snacks geared to the American palate — the establishment is a go-to among young people and professionals who are searching for midnight snacks and late-night craving. 

Since 2019, Thomas Concillo from Pacifica has stopped in to order almond tea and sesame rice balls after his shift from his property management job in San Mateo. For him, the proximity of the store from his job works in his favor, since there are no other Hong Kong shops accessible to him around San Mateo County.

“[Traveling to San Francisco] is a little too far late in the night for me to get my cravings,” Concillo said. “Especially if I’m working down in San Mateo.”

Mackenzie Jakoubek, executive director of the Downtown San Mateo Association, was delighted to learn of the local staple’s return. It’s a crowd favorite, she said.

“What I have heard is that it is rare to get authentic Hong Kong-style food, so there are people that really love [Dessert Republic’s return],” Jakoubek said.

The previous owners’ hours of operation past midnight will gradually return but, for now, the priority is to let Dessert Republic’s regulars know they have returned and are ready to serve their favorite snacks and sweets.

“The future goal is very simple,” said Mo. “I just want to try to provide the customers the best experience with the best ingredients, so more people will come by.”