In the 1970s, Tokemoana Sevelo immigrated from Tonga to ensure his children received an education.
In retirement, Sevelo returned to Tonga to build his dream home and enjoyed working on his farm. After some time, his passion for gardening turned into a 16-acre farm where he began cultivating cassava, taro, plantains and yams to share with his family and friends. In 2012, Sevelo began shipping containers of root vegetables to his family in Utah so that they could have the opportunity of authentic Tongan food. With the high volume of imported crops being sent over, his daughter, Fusi Taaga, saw an opportunity to share them with the community.
“Food is such an important part of our culture” she said.
Isiah Lopez preparing a Loco Moco at Tokemoana's in San Mateo.
Arianna Cunha/Daily Journal
With imported crops and a passion for food, Taaga decided to open a restaurant and pay tribute to her dad, Tokemoana’s. What started as a wholesale store in Salt Lake City has pivoted from small-scale takeout in Redwood City to its new permanent, diner-style residence in San Mateo. “My vision is to grow the market for Polynesian food in the Bay Area,” Taaga said.
As of 2020, San Mateo County alone is home to one of the largest Tongan origin populations outside of the Polynesian nation of Tonga. As the only Polynesian restaurant on the Peninsula, Taaga knew how important the menu would be to showcasing the one-of-a-kind flavors of her father’s Polynesian imported goods.
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You can find a high quality 14 entrée menu of authentic Polynesian cuisine accompanied by a variety of imported root vegetables. Chef’s Kalolo and Vanessa Mahafutau prepare these items daily and are on a first come, first serve basis. Some of the most popular items include the Lu Sipi/Luau Mamoe, which is lamb with taro leaves slow cooked in coconut milk, onions and spices; the Teriyaki Turkey Tail that is braised with a sweet teriyaki glaze; and the Lu Pulu, a corned beef brisket sliced and cooked with taro leaves in a coconut cream base (available Sundays). All these entrees come in generous portions with a side of island staple root vegetables such as ufi (a non-sweet yam), talo (taro), manioke (cassava) and siaine (green banana or plantain).
Fusi Taaga, owner of Tokemoana's in San Mateo.
Arianna Cunha/Daily Journal
In addition to the authentic menu, Taaga also wanted to share her love of breakfast food and has cultivated a variety of traditional and Polynesian inspired favorites. The LULU’s pancake combo features two of the fluffiest pancakes with thin sliced sweet bananas, macadamia nuts, whipped cream and topped off with a cup of hot syrup. Another customer favorite is the Loco Moco, having stacked beef patties over rice, smothered in gravy, two eggs, and mac salad on the side. No matter what item you choose, make sure to order a fruity Mango Otai, one of Taaga’s famous lattes. Or better yet, both.
From the fresh ingredients grown by the original Tokemoana farm in Tonga, to family working in all corners of the restaurant, Tokemoana is the epitome of a true family business.
“We are a family working together and supporting each other. Everyone is learning new skills so that we can run a successful restaurant,” said Natalia Mane, floor manager, social media manager, and a niece of Taaga’s.
Despite its recent opening in April, Taaga and her family already have plans to expand a section of the restaurant into a grab-and-go-style café for people that want a quick cup of coffee and some tasty treats and will potentially move a Utah-based kava bar out to the Bay Area.
Tokemoana’s is open Wednesday-Friday, 8 a.m.-5 p.m., and weekends, 8 a.m-3 p.m., at 4000 S. El Camino Real, Unit B in San Mateo.
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