Nini’s Coffee Shop is set to return as Kiki’s

Then the pandemic came, owner Rick Swartz decided to retire, and the welcoming open sign was no more. Swartz spent a long time running the business he took over from his mother Nini and his father Wally in 1973.

His one wish was to see a new owner keep the spirit alive.

That wish will soon be granted as Jacob Marotta and his sister Sarah Marotta bought the building and business to be renamed Kiki’s after their mother. Jacob Marotta is a 2012 Burlingame High School graduate, a Le Cordon Bleu trained chef and most recently was the culinary arts teacher at Sequoia High School. Sarah Marotta is also Le Cordon Bleu trained and is founder and owner of Beurre Pastry Shop, a delivery business that has served the Bay Area for six years.

Jacob Marotta said he hoped Nini’s would reopen but turned his hope to action upon learning it was for sale. “On a wing and lots of prayers, the sale went through and the family is now ready to get to work,” according to a family statement. An opening date has yet to be determined but Jacob Marotta said it will be in a few months, which he added is much better than years. So far, they have decided to incorporate more baked goods, including morning rolls, cookie bars and cinnamon rolls, for which Jacob Marotta said his sister is famous.

“People die for her cinnamon rolls,” he said.

The menu is a work in progress, but Jacob Marotta said it will offer all the classic services of a cafe and bakery in a quick, casual environment that will include coffee, pastry and simple breakfast and lunch options for dine-in, take-out and delivery.

The next few months will entail making sure health and safety codes are met, but Jacob Marotta assured there won’t be a gut and remodel. Still, there will be an effort to warm up the place as Swartz took much of the memorabilia posted on the walls with him.

“It makes sense since much of it was family photos,” Jacob Marotta said. “We will be bringing back the spirit and make everyone feel welcome.”

Nini’s was a place you go to because you live nearby or someone told you about it. And once you went, it became part of your routine.

The coffee shop is at 1000 N. Idaho St. in San Mateo, but it’s in the unique portion of the city that is north of Peninsula Avenue on the Burlingame side. Nearby, there are single-family homes, industrial businesses and recent culinary ventures Hot Wok Bistro, Golden Boy Pizza and Kitchentown, a food innovation hub where Backhaus, Ugly Pickle and countless others were launched. It’s a unique hot spot of culinary innovation and the newly reinvented Kiki’s has the potential to fit right in and hit the ground running.

“People are ready to have a spot like that again,” he said, “where the community can come together.”

He is absolutely right, and the timing might end up being perfect. And one of the draws of Nini’s was the passion that made its way to every plate. You got the feeling everyone wanted to be there. I get the same sense from Marotta that Kiki’s will have that same vibe.

Aside from the new name, Marotta said there are no current plans to name any dishes after people. Yet if there is ever such a desire, I might suggest a ham, egg and cheese croissant. It can be called, hm, I don’t know, maybe “The Editor.” Until then, I’ll be anxiously awaiting a time when I can wait in line for one of those cinnamon rolls. I hear they are to die for.

Jon Mays is the editor in chief of the Daily Journal. He can be reached at jon@smdailyjournal.com. Follow Jon on Twitter @jonmays.