Last call at The Topper in South City

“It’s a family,” said Steve Rasmussen, a South San Francisco native whose been coming to The Topper for more than two decades. Known only as Razz, he started visiting after late shifts on his delivery job.

If he wanted to make a stop before heading home, Razz said he used to get on the phone with owner Lee Cattaneo at 7 a.m. and make an offer — you turn the lights on and I’ll bring the doughnuts.

This sort of sweet deal won’t be around much longer, as Cattaneo said The Topper is expected to soon close. His siblings want to sell the building, and a buyer has been picked.

It won’t be acquired by the city of South San Francisco, said Cattaneo, who was approached by city officials claiming to be interested in purchasing the bar and above residential unit where he was raised.

But after some negotiation, Cattaneo said it became clear they weren’t committed to sealing the deal. So instead, another unidentified buyer was selected and the sale terms are solidifying. Once the purchase is final, Cattaneo expected The Topper to stay open for only a few more months.

“I’ll miss it once it’s gone,” said Cattaneo, who has been waking up at 4 a.m. each day since about 2001 to get ready and open the bar at 8 a.m.

Cattaneo, 74, runs the place alone — with a little help from his friends.

On days of the big 49ers game, Razz and some other members of The Topper family will fire up the barbecue in the back. Or an a casual weekday afternoon, someone might bring in some hot dogs or pizzas for lunch.

The food is free. And the drinks are cheap — but only if you pay in cash, because cards aren’t accepted. The beers are cold, but solely served in bottles — Cattaneo didn’t want to take on the hassle associated with installing a draft system. Shots of Jameson and Jack Daniels whiskey are the most popular order, and fancy drinks aren’t served because the blender doesn’t work, said Cattaneo, with a twinkle in his eye.

The décor is sparse but unique, and the crown jewels are a couple of old stadium seats salvaged from the former Candlestick Park. Deep red and steeped in winning memories, Cattaneo said they were gifted to The Topper by a patron who picked them from the scrap heap when the field was demolished.

The interior today is a far cry from how Cattaneo remembered it growing up, when it featured a heavy art deco influence, complete with leopard print and turquoise accents.

Such bold choices align with the fluorescent pink sign long hung outside, establishing a local landmark of sorts. But beyond a new window in front, Cattaneo said most of the rest of the building’s exterior is the same as always.

“We haven’t changed much,” said Cattaneo.

The same cannot be said for South San Francisco. Sign Hill said it is the industrial city but the newer DNA helix at the gateway to Grand Avenue proclaimed it the birthplace of biotech. The Bayfront is growing with glistening life sciences businesses and apartment buildings are on the rise seemingly everywhere downtown.

Newly-minted South City residents will wander into The Topper occasionally, but they tend not to stay late. That’s part of the reason it closes at 10 p.m., said Cattaneo, who added shutting down earlier helps limit misbehavior.

The limited hours also accommodate the regulars — the family members — who appreciate its reliability.

“They are always welcoming and treat me like a good friend,” said Donna Tyler, a South City resident who values The Topper and the community built around it.

But with the last call soon on tap after more than seven decades of making friends and memories, Cattaneo said the sentiment is bittersweet.

“Sometimes I’m relieved, sometimes I’m not,” he said.

That’s a feeling everyone can understand. No matter what it’s called.

austin@smdailyjournal.com

(650) 344-5200 ext. 105