Riding the rails

I cannot deny that trains are sometimes late, to the point where you should always plan for that eventuality. Don’t make tight connections, and if possible stay overnight and take the next part of your journey the next day. Often you get lucky — we arrived 10 minutes early this trip — but that definitely isn’t the rule.

Amtrak’s coach seats are like airline seats in some ways, but are far more comfortable. The train’s coach seats are wider, have more legroom and recline farther — and there is no center seat (seating is two on a side, with a generous center aisle). Plus, there are 120v electrical outlets at the seats. Restrooms are compact, of course, but are roomier than what you find on an airplane.

Having said all that, I prefer the privacy and extra space that come from Amtrak’s sleeping accommodations. Roomettes accommodate up to two in very close quarters, with facing chairs and a small center table that turn into a set of bunk beds at night. For them, restrooms and a shower room are down the hall. Bedrooms — still for just two passengers — are a step up: each is twice the size of a roomette and contains an armchair, a long couch, a small table and an integrated private restroom. At night, the couch side of the bedroom becomes a fairly generous bunk bed, leaving the chair free for night-time seating for one. For slightly larger groups, a door between two adjacent bedrooms can be opened to form a “bedroom suite” for up to four.

While you could keep your luggage in your bedroom, you’ll likely want to put larger items on the luggage rack in the car’s lower level. And for really large items — bicycles, for instance — and for suitcases and boxes that you don’t need access to while on your journey, check those at the station to be retrieved at your destination.

Sleepers cost much more than coach seats, but the cost of a sleeper includes all dining car meals (but not alcohol; that’s extra) for those occupying the sleeper. And these days, Amtrak’s food is pretty good. Breakfast in the diner is open to all and is first-come, first-served, while lunch and dinner are by reservation (the dining car steward makes an announcement, and then walks the train to take those). But sleeping car passengers get first choice of reservations, so coach passengers — who must pay for their meals (all prix fixe) — can find themselves shut out. Fortunately, the lower level of the observation car has a cafe serving hot dogs, pizza and the like, plus a host of snacks and drinks.

Speaking of the observation car, with its overhead-curving windows, seating there is not reserved and is popular, so you may or may not have luck finding a spot whenever you drop by. But the regular windows on the train are large and abundant, so even from your assigned coach seat or bedroom the views are quite good. Note, however, that all West Coast Amtrak trains have two levels, and that the views are slightly better from upstairs, so unless you are physically unable to navigate those stairs, you may prefer an upper level seat (seats being assigned as you board) or room (rooms being assigned when you purchase your ticket).

When planning a trip, many overlook Amtrak as a possible option. There are many reasons Amtrak may not work for a given trip, but next time you plan one, check the Amtrak website to see if the train makes sense. You may just discover a great new way to travel.