The view from Sweeney Ridge: Beyond the Bay

Even though they were accompanied by a small group of peaceful Indians who helped blaze the trail, the threat of unknown Indians was a constant worry. Portola proved to be a great commander and kept the group together without losing any of his men. They kept walking on toward their goal of Monterey Bay, through July, August and September. On Oct. 31, 1769, the explorers reached Montara Ridge, and from this elevation they sighted Point Reyes to the north. Portola had been increasingly worried that somehow they had missed Monterey Bay, and now his worst fears were confirmed. Point Reyes was a landmark already known to the Spanish, and they shouldn’t be seeing it. But there it was.

They descended from Montara Mountain into the San Pedro Valley (Pacifica) to rest. The exhausted men collapsed along a stream near an Ohlone Indian encampment. Portola selected one of his most trusted soldiers, Sgt. Jose Francisco Ortega, to scout out the area. When Ortega returned, he reported to Portola that he had climbed a ridge to the east and discovered "an enormous area of a sea or estuary which shot inland as far as the eye could see.” A few days later, on Nov. 4, 1769, Portola decided to see for himself. They broke camp and the group climbed to the top of Sweeney Ridge and gazed upon San Francisco Bay, the first Europeans to do so. They went no further north. Other explorers would write the next chapter in the history of San Francisco Bay and the great city to come.

They turned south, traveling to the San Andreas Valley where they camped overnight. The next day, challenged by a deep stream, they turned east toward two tall Redwood trees (Palo Alto) where they camped for several days before returning to San Pedro Valley (Pacifica). Then they went south again, and this time they successfully recognized Monterey Bay when they got there.

Sweeney Ridge has figured in events other than the discovery of San Francisco Bay, of course. On Christmas Eve, 1963, a Flying Tiger cargo plane, loaded with goods from the Orient, stopped at SFO to refuel after its long flight over the Pacific Ocean. Taking off again to complete its flight to New York, the plane struggled to gain altitude, and in the dark and a thick fog, crashed into Sweeney Ridge, exploded and burned, just missing the summit by a few feet. There were no survivors. Throughout the night, silk scarves, part of the cargo, floated aimlessly in the air like singed butterflies.

In the 1760s, the Spanish were worried that the Russians would be coming to take over California. With Portola’s discovery of San Francisco Bay and the subsequent settlements on the Peninsula, including Mission Dolores and the all-important Presidio, Spain secured its place in California history. Two centuries later, we heard the familiar cry, "The Russians are coming!” To keep the Cold War from heating up, we established NIKE missile and radar bases, including one right on top of Sweeney Ridge. It looked like a giant golf ball, and apparently it worked well. It kept us safe, and no Russians were harmed either in this experiment. The golf ball is gone now, and Sweeney Ridge is once again unadorned. Mother Nature has reclaimed her neighborhood, and deer, raccoons and the occasional bobcat have returned to the ridge. Avian air patrols, flying fortresses like hawks and vultures, squadrons of ravens and crows, cruise over the ridge and the valley just to be sure all is well.

Portola Elementary School, located in the western hills of San Bruno, in the afternoon shadow of Sweeney Ridge, is named in honor of the great explorer. In 1984, Sweeney Ridge became a part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. A plaque commemorating the Portola Discovery Site was dedicated on May 9, 1984, with the late U.S. Rep. Tom Lantos, D-San Mateo, officiating. Several hundred people made the hike up to the ridge that day to participate in the festivities, so there’s no reason you can’t do it too. And you won’t have to hike through brush or be tied onto a horse. The asphalt trail is well-maintained, moderately steep in places and worth the effort to get a glimpse of whatever wildlife decides to let you glimpse. The real reward is the view — in every direction. On a clear day, you can see forever.

I’ve been asked a number of times how Sweeney Ridge got its name. My answer? Nobody seems to know. Someone named Sweeney might have owned it or occupied it at one time or borrowed it to run some dairy cattle on. He didn’t seem to leave a record, just his name. All we know is that Sweeney, like the fabled Kilroy, was there.