There are three prominent islands that jut out in San Francisco Bay just as you enter the Golden Gate. The one 1 ½ mile north of North Beach was originally named Yerba Buena by the explorer Ayala in the 1770s. The other island to the east of San Francisco (originally Yerba Buena) he named Alcatraz (later Goats Island then Yerba Buena). To the north was a larger island that was named Angel Island. Apparently the profusion of the plant, Yerba Buena, occurred everywhere and the name became applied to many places. The names were switched to their present names by a British ship’s captain, Frederick Beechey, who surveyed the bay in 1826.
In 1846, Julian Workman, co-owner of Rancho La Puente and personal friend of Pio Pico, was granted Alcatraz with the understanding that he would build a lighthouse on it. He never did fulfill that promise. The military Governor of California, John E. Fremont, acquired the island for the United States in 1846. Following the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo and the United States acquisition of California, the U.S. Army began studying the feasibility of Alcatraz as a base for coastal batteries to protect the approach of ships through the Golden Gate. In 1853, the first lighthouse on the West Coast was built on Alcatraz. Its style was that of the Cape Cod cottage-style. The lens that powered the lighthouse was imported from France and shipped around South America. It was lit on June 1, 1854, and continued to light the area for 62 years when it was torn down and replaced with the light the still beacons today. In addition to the lighthouse, a fog bell was established on the north side of the island.
The island presented many challenges. All food had to be brought to the island as well as any fresh water. The currents of the Bay were swift and dangerous allowing little chance for escape. Only a few prisoners are recorded as trying to escape by swimming to the mainland.
In 1853, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers began fortifying the island. In 1858, Fort Alcatraz acquired 200 soldiers and 11 cannon. When the Civil War began, 85 cannons were put in casements around the island. Guns and powder were stored at the garrison due to the many Confederate sympathizers in San Francisco. Due to the Civil War, many more prisoners were held on the island and another enlarged jail was built. By modern standards, the cells were too small, a fire hazard and were inhumane. With the rise of the Spanish-American War, the prison population grew drastically.
In 1857, a citadel that housed personnel, food, prisoners in single cells, and it became the focal point for Alcatraz’s social life. It was torn down in 1908 to make way for the third prison. Over the years it became apparent that the isolation of the island of Alcatraz would be better used as a place to hold prisoners and the military use for protection became less important as much better sites were available at the Presidio and Marin County. In 1912, a new prison was finished that could house 600 prisoners. From 1915 forward, the island was used as a prisoner detention center only and was designated as Pacific Branch, U.S. Disciplinary Barracks.
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In 1933, the Federal Bureau of Prisons took charge of Alcatraz. The nation seemed like it was on a crime spree due mainly to the crime generated in the 1920s due to of prohibition. The prison was improved for these high-profile prisoners that were to be sent here from Leavenworth, Kansas. During the next 29 years of use as a prison, such notable prisoners, such as: Al Capone, Robert Franklin Stroud (Birdman of Alcatraz), George “Machine Gun” Kelly, Mickey Cohen, “Doc” Baker, etc. resided here.
Due to its unique position in the San Francisco Bay, expenses to house prisoners were high. The penitentiary closed on March 21, 1963, due to the excessive cost of keeping prisoners on the island.
Beginning on November 20, 1969, a group of Native Americans, called United Indians of All Tribes, began occupying the island demanding rights for Native Americans. For the next two years they remained on the island demanding that the island be rebuilt as an Indian educational center, ecology center and cultural center. During this occupation several building were destroyed by fire and graffiti was visible everywhere before this standoff ceased.
At present the National Park Service is in charge of the Island. In 1976, the entire island was listed on the National Register of Historic Places and was further declared a National Historic Landmark in 1986.
Rediscovering the Peninsula runs every weekend. It is compiled through our archives created by Jim Clifford and the late Darold Fredricks.
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