Food finds

art of culinary simplicity

As the nation’s de facto culinary conscience, Alice Waters has spent decades leading the movement that made household terms out of "organic” and "local.” Now she is ready to tell you what to do with all that food.

Her new cookbook, "The Art of Simple Food,” is a comprehensive look at the way we ought to cook — basic preparations that allow the flavors and beauty of the ingredients to dominate.

As in her deliciously basic spaghettini with oil and garlic, ratatouille of grilled vegetables, onion tart and sweet corn soup. She even takes on the all-American grilled cheese (the secret is gruyere and fresh butter).

For anyone who cares about the quality of their food, this is a book not just to own, but to cook from.

Spaghettini with oil and garlic

Start to finish: 20 minutes

Servings: 4

1 pound spaghettini

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 sprigs parsley, stems removed, leaves chopped (or more, if desired)

Pinch hot pepper flakes

Salt, to taste

Bring a large pot of lightly slated water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until al dente.

Meanwhile, in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-low, heat the olive oil. When it is just warm add the garlic, parsley and hot pepper. Cook until the garlic is soft, turning off the heat just as the garlic starts to sizzle. Don’t let it brown or burn.

Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the noodles and a pinch of salt to the skillet and toss. If needed, add a bit of the reserved cooking water to loosen the sauce. Serve immediately.

(Recipe from Alice Water’s "The Art of Simple Food,” Clarkson Potter, 2007, $35)

Popovers with goat Cheese

These spicy, cheesy popovers from Linda Collister’s "Quick Breads” come together almost instantly in a food processor and are perfect for brunch or paired with a salad for a light dinner.

Popovers with goat cheese and chili

Start to finish: 45 minutes (5 minutes active)

Servings: 4 to 6

1 cup milk (not fat-free)

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon wheat germ

3 extra-large eggs

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

5 to 6 ounces goat cheese, cut into 12 rounds

1 medium-hot chili (or to taste), finely chopped

Preheat oven to 425 F. Coat two standard 6-cup muffin pans with cooking spray. Set the pan on a baking sheet. In a food processor, combine the milk, flour, salt, wheat germ, eggs and butter. Process until the ingredients form a smooth batter. Pour the batter into the muffin cups, filling each to about half. Place one piece of cheese and a bit of chopped chili into each cup.

Bake for 25 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 F and bake another 15 minutes. Do not open the oven door during cooking. Serve immediately.