Burgerville

Emma Jean’s is small, with only a handful of tables (all of which were full), so we sat at the counter. Our stools enabled us not only to observe the goings-on, but to chat with the friendly staff. The place looks as if it hasn’t changed since the 1950s (it probably hasn’t), but it was clean and served some of the best basic American food we’ve ever had. My wife had a burger and onion rings, while I tried their version of a Philly Cheese Steak (with tater tots!). Simple food, but made with care from what appeared to be quality ingredients.

I thought of Emma Jean’s while out walking this week: I saw that Redwood City is getting a new burger place along Woodside Road, about a block west of the Safeway supermarket. Until recently, on Friday evenings and a good part of Saturday, a pop-up called Bay Burgers operated in a Spring street parking lot near Douglas Avenue. Clearly the pop-up was successful: 24 of their 25 Yelp reviews gave the place five stars, while the one remaining review gave it two stars simply because they couldn’t find a place to park and thus never got to try the food. In any case, Bay Burgers has leased the recently remodeled (and downsized) Woodside Road storefront occupied years ago by 5th Quarter Pizza, next door to where Bravo Taqueria, at long last, should soon be reopening.

According to Yelp, Bay Burgers should be opening its doors on Jan. 30 of next year. Whether or not that date is accurate, you can expect to find smash burgers made by “a French-trained chef” and  “using our best house-made ingredients.” Based on their pop-up menu, expect to find burgers with one or two patties, a “burger” made from pulled pork (plus bacon!), a Portobello burger and grilled cheese sandwiches. French fries either come straight, with cheese or “loaded” — this last one tops the fries with either two burger patties or pulled pork, plus cheese, pickles, chilis and various sauces. Drinks are not what one usually finds in a typical American burger place: Bay Burgers serves freshly made aquas frescas, Mexican coke, Gatorade, Capri Sun and, of course, water. Finally, the pop-up featured unnamed weekly specials and dessert items baked daily, so don’t let the somewhat limited menu I’ve described so far keep you from giving Bay Burgers a try when they do open in their new, permanent location.

It sounds as if Bay Burgers has the right formula: quality ingredients assembled with care into a classic American hamburger. I expect they give each the attention it deserves, rather than simply cranking them out in volume, as you would find at your typical chain fast-food outlet — most of which, of course, can be found in Redwood City. But Bay Burgers, as good as it apparently will be, won’t be without competition. In fact, two of its competitors are not far from Bay Burgers’ new home.

One, Woodside Roadhouse (located just across Woodside Road from Woodside Plaza), also specializes in smash burgers, but also offers chicken tenders, French bread pizzas and salad. And in Woodside Plaza proper, Redwood Grill features a truly great burger (not smashed, but with a number of optional toppings) in addition to its many other offerings.

Until recently, my wife and I have occasionally been enjoying what Big Brothers Burgers serves from their Roosevelt Plaza storefront (they’re temporarily closed due to an early November fire in a nearby liquor store). And I’ve always had a soft spot in my heart for the great burgers you can get at The Wild Rover (formerly, City Pub) — although these days I find myself tempted by some of their other great entrees (their fish tacos, for instance). Finally, although I haven’t been there in years, my family used to love Canyon Inn, the “family friendly neighborhood gathering spot” at the corner of Oak Knoll Drive and Canyon Road.

I have favorites in nearby communities as well — Johnston’s Saltbox in San Carlos serves a great burger, and Jeffrey’s Hamburgers in Menlo Park has a nice variety — but with so many choices these days right here in Burgerville — er, Redwood City — I see little reason not to spend my hard-earned dollars in the town in which I live.