Rediscovering the Peninsula: San Francisco’s Ocean Beach

The sandstone remnants of part of these cliffs had formed the Seal Rocks just south of Point Lobos. It was a spectacular sight and once it became known, hikers, picnickers, horsemen and sightseers began frequenting the area. The only road to the area at this time was the Ocean House road and this prevented even greater numbers of tourists from flocking to the area. Realizing the commercial potential of the area, Samuel Brannan (ex-Mormon elder) purchased in 1858 lumber from a stranded ship for $1,500 and built a hotel, the Seal Rock Hotel, to the south of the Sutro Heights. In 1863, real estate man John Buckley carved out a niche on the cliff by the Seal Rocks and built the Cliff House.

Due to the limited space available at the time, it was a rather small building but it attracted the “fast crowd’ who wanted good food, a good time, horse racing and other entertainment. The following year, a toll road was constructed from Central Avenue (Presidio Avenue) to the Cliff House. The long, straight 2 mile road became a race track for those with fast horses and getting to the Cliff House was as much fun as being there (This road was purchased by the city in 1877 and later renamed Geary Boulevard). In 1866, well-liked and jovial Capt. Junius Foster became manager of the Cliff House. His personality and the illegal gambling at the establishment attracted more patrons and, in 1868, two wings as well as a seaside balcony was added. In the early 1870s, the Cliff House added hotel accommodations and the weekends became so busy and crowded that patrons had to be turned away. Wine, women and song became the standard program and the parties lasted well into the night.

In 1879, Adolph Sutro visited the area with his daughter and fell in love with the place. In 1883, he purchased the Cliff House and the land around it and decided to clean up its image.

In 1884, the Ocean Beach Pavilion, a dance hall and a hotel was built to the south and near the Seal Rocks Hotel.

The Cliff House burned down in 1894 and his daughter became determined to rebuild it. Adolph had bigger plans and he began construction of the Sutro Baths to the north of the Cliff House. In 1896, Sutro Baths opened with six saltwater pools and one freshwater pool. The largest being L-shaped, 300 feet long and another one being 50 by 75 feet that was to be used by women and children.

The pools were about more than just swimming. The complex cost 10 cents to get in and if you swam it cost 25 cents (swimsuit included and it was all wool with a pocket in it for your keys). A train ride from Pacific Avenue out Geary Boulevard was one way of getting to the baths. Four Grecian towers at the entrance greeted you to an enormous glass enclosed pool with its grandstands from which to view. There were 500 dressing rooms. If you didn’t want to swim, you could just stroll around all of the sights. There were arcades, pavilions, promenades, alcoves and corridors adorned with tropical plants, fountains, flowers and a stage that could be used for entertainment such as operas, dramas and acrobatic exhibitions. There were stuffed animals for viewing, such as bears, walruses, sea lions, as well as birds and insects. There was something for everyone. More than 25,000 people could be accommodated. It was one of the best destinations for fun in San Francisco.

In 1889, he drew up a plan for Sutro Heights.

Over time, the baths business declined and an ice-skating rink was put in. In 1963, the property was sold and the complex burned down later that year.

Rediscovering the Peninsula runs every weekend. It is compiled through our archives created by Jim Clifford and the late Darold Fredricks.