Mardi Gras and Carnival food traditions presage Lent

The point is proved in these streamlined recipes AICR has developed, for three dishes, each related to a custom in a different part of the world: the British Isles, New Orleans and Rio de Janeiro.

The dishes are Shrove Tuesday pancakes, taking their cue from a traditional British dish; a revamped jambalaya for a New Orleans-style Mardi Gras; and a rich but light-bodied seafood stew, modeled after a traditional Brazilian dish, in honor of Rio's Carnival.

In many countries, the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent, is the day families use up foods traditionally avoided during Lent -- meat, eggs and dairy products like milk, butter and cheese.

Mardi Gras, or "Fat Tuesday," is a direct reference to the custom of using up these forbidden, high-fat foods. The word "carnival" and its variations, like "carnival," most likely come from the Latin phrase carnem levare, meaning "the removal of meat."

As with most holiday foods, says Melanie Polk, AICR's director of nutrition education, "those linked to Mardi Gras and its counterpart in other countries are high in fat and calories and less than ideal from a health perspective."

Still, with some fine-tuning, cooks can make these traditional dishes healthful and enjoyable any day of the year, and there are several ways to adapt recipes for healthier eating, Polk explains.

Historically, butter and other animal fats like beef suet and pork lard were the only fats available. Today, with the introduction of healthier fats like unsaturated canola oil, we can use fats that won't increase our total cholesterol. Nonstick pans and skillets, too, need far less oil to cook with.

Also, Polk says, sometimes the amount of sugar can be scaled back; nutrition can be boosted by using whole-grain products in place of refined versions; herbs, spices and other seasonings, far more available than in the past, contribute flavor and possibly health benefits, too; and adding vegetables or fruit can add to the flavor and nutritional content of many dishes.

In the British Isles, the day before Ash Wednesday is called Shrove Tuesday, named for the ritual of "shriving," or forgiving of sins.

For the British, their crepe-style pancakes were an easy way to help use up butter and eggs before Lent began. Eating pancakes on Shrove Tuesday is also a tradition in Russia, where the celebration is called Maslyanitsa (derived from the Russian word for butter), and an entire week is devoted to pancakes.

The following American-style pancake recipe contains just enough butter, eggs and buttermilk to ensure rich flavor; whole-wheat flour and wheat germ boost nutrition and dietary fiber, and blueberries add flavor and juiciness, plus health-protective antioxidants.

Shrove Tuesday Pancakes

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup whole-wheat flour

1/4 cup wheat germ

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons double-acting baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

3 tablespoons sugar

2 cups nonfat buttermilk at room temperature

3 large eggs at room temperature

3 tablespoons butter, melted

Canola oil spray

2 to 2 1/2 cups frozen blueberries, thawed and drained

1 bottle (about 10 ounces) sugar-free blueberry preserves for sauce (optional)

In a large bowl, whisk together both flours, wheat germ, salt, baking powder, baking soda and sugar. In a medium bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, eggs and butter. Whisk the buttermilk mixture into the dry ingredients, blending just until combined.

Spray a griddle or large nonstick skillet with canola oil. Heat over medium-high heat until hot enough to make drops of water scatter on its surface. Working in batches, pour the batter onto the griddle in 1/4-cup amounts. Sprinkle some blueberries on top of each pancake.

Cook pancakes about 2 minutes on each side, or until they are golden. Transfer cooked pancakes to a heatproof platter and keep warm in a preheated 200 F oven until all pancakes are made.

If using blueberry preserves, place them in a microwave-proof container. While pancakes are cooking, heat in microwave at medium power, stopping occasionally to stir, until jelly is melted and mixture is warm, about 2 to 3 minutes. If too thick, add a small amount of water to thin mixture to a sauce-like consistency. Transfer sauce to a sauceboat. Serve the pancakes with blueberry sauce.

Makes about 20 pancakes, or about 7 servings.<