Lasagna is trending this Christmas

Layer upon layer

The official roots of lasagna appear to be well buried in the past. The ancient Greeks often enjoyed cake dishes made of layers of dough called “laganons.” Around 146 B.C., the Romans completed their conquest of the Greeks, and according to “ Encyclopaedia Britannica,” may or may not have adopted the dish, referring to it by the name of the pan it was cooked in, “lasanum.”

The meat-and-tomato-sauce noodle dish we enjoy now, also known as lasagna al forno, appears to have emerged from the province of Emilia-Romagna. It was first mentioned in the Bolognese Memorials in 1282 and recorded in the 14th-century cookbook, “ Liber de Coquina,” as laganas or lasanas.

In medieval times, lasagna was only eaten for special occasions, during the annual Carnevale, or as a special dish for major religious holidays, like the beginning of Lent. Perhaps the Christmas lasagna tradition is even older than most people would think.

“I can only speak for Italian families as that is my background,” explains Jessica Montanelli, an Italian food blogger at Cooking My Dreams. Both my family, and my extended family, back in Italy, always celebrate with lasagna on special occasions.”

A more modern incarnation of Christmas lasagna is meatless lasagne da fornel. Spiced apples, dried fruit, nuts and poppy seeds feature heavily in this Dolomite recipe. It is served first on Christmas Eve, proving you actually can start dinner with dessert.

An enduring tradition

Michele Di Pietro is a second-generation Italian American chef, cookbook author and digital publisher at Mangia With Michele. She explains that lasagna has always been part of her Christmas menu.

“From growing up in New Jersey through today, it’s part of my family’s tradition and very nostalgic for us. And, I can confidently say that it’s often served throughout most Italian-American households at Christmastime,” Di Pietro says. “Again, it’s a more involved, rich dish that people look forward to enjoying on special occasions. And, since it’s often served at and associated with big holidays like Christmas when you’re with family that you may not see otherwise throughout the year, making lasagna has become synonymous with family.”

“In Bologna, lasagna means celebration. It’s Sunday, Christmas, weddings — life itself. Italian-Americans carried that emotion across the ocean and made it their own tradition,” adds Michele Casadei Massari, the founder and executive chef of Lucciola in New York City.

Comfort food plus

“For many, lasagna is the quintessential comfort food. And not only does it provide that go-to cozy comfort we’re all looking for during the holidays; it’s inherently and easily shareable for a big crowd — always a plus for the holiday table and the holiday host,” says Giorgia Sinatra, co-owner of the beloved Italian-family-owned Pasta Sisters in Los Angeles.

“I have noticed an increase in lasagna orders during the holidays, especially as the weather gets colder,” shares John Paul Iacobucci, executive chef at Martini Modern Italian in Columbus, Ohio.

“Lasagna is a dish that grounds a gathering,” says Marissa Stevens, founder and recipe developer at Pinch and Swirl. “It’s also really practical. You can make it days in advance, it reheats beautifully, and people look forward to it. For a lot of families, it’s replaced the high-stress, hourslong ‘traditional’ meal that disappears in fifteen minutes. It gives you the same sense of occasion, but without the whole ordeal.”

“Lasagna has a nostalgic, comforting quality. Personally, it reminds me of my family and the big holiday dinners we would prepare together when I was younger,” adds Food Network’s “Everyday Italian,” Giada De Laurentiis. “I think a lot of people share that same sentiment — it’s a dish that connects people.”

“Lasagna brings people together because it feels genuine,” says Alexander Coole, head of culinary at Buca di Beppo. “It’s made in big portions, meant for passing around the table and carries a sense of comfort that resonates with families across generations and cultures.”

“When my grandparents came to the USA from Italy and celebrated Thanksgiving, they would serve lasagna first before the turkey because for them serving lasagna was a tradition for any holiday,” says Maria Liberati, host of “ The Maria Liberati Show.” “It also symbolizes love and nurturing since it is often a dish prepared for others in time of need.”

Mixing it up

Old school Italians will tell you there are only seven or eight lasagna recipes. The one most Americans know best is lasagna alla Bolognese, with slow-cooked meat ragu, creamy bechamel sauce and tender pasta. But these days, there are many varieties to choose from, and constant experimenting.

“You’re definitely seeing more variations because of social media and the increased interest in Italian food,” explains Chef Matthew Cutolo of Gargiulo’s Restaurant on Coney Island. “I love seeing more people discover the difference between a Northern Italian-style lasagna with spinach pasta sheets and bechamel versus a Southern-style lasagna made with tomato sauce and ricotta. It’s great that more people are learning about Italy’s regional cooking and all the traditions behind it.”

“My lasagna is the one I grew up with in Bologna — Bolognese ragù, Parmigiano Reggiano, love and respect for time. Sometimes I do lighter or vegetarian versions, because today true luxury is attention — to yourself, your guests and your planet,” shares Massari. “Everyone wants to reinvent the classic — gluten free, plant based, truffle scented, you name it. I love innovation, but lasagna has rules: if you lose the patience and the soul, you lose the dish.”

Anthony Costella, founder of Antonio Carlo Gourmet Sauces, points out, “Swapping meat for hearty vegetables like eggplant, zucchini or butternut squash creates a flavorful, satisfying vegan or vegetarian lasagna. And for those avoiding gluten, gluten-free pasta works beautifully in this dish.”

“In our house, we celebrate the Feast of the Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve, but we have always had a pasta dish along with the seafood; lasagna is the perfect accompaniment. I have done vegetarian versions of lasagna that are delicious, particularly mushroom and asparagus lasagna with the mushrooms taking the place of the meat and served with mushroom sauce instead of marinara,” adds Iacobucci.

Pass it around

Lasagna has a long history as a festive dish in Italy. Italian immigrants brought the tradition to the United States, incorporating it into Italian-American holiday meals, including Thanksgiving and Christmas. It often lands between courses or as part of a larger traditional feast.

The versatile and hearty Italian classic is the definition of comfort food, no matter when you serve it. It symbolizes family, abundance, love, home and a link to Italian heritage.