Gator comes to San Mateo

Chef Glenn "Gator” Thompson earned his nickname the old-fashioned way — wrestling an alligator in Florida after a dare and many shots of tequila.

While stationed in St. Petersburg, Fla., the now 49-year-old became known for his fun with alligators. The trick is to get the gator on its back, he said, then it passes out. Once discharged, Thompson put alligator on his menu in San Francisco and his publicist dubbed him Chef Gator.

Thompson wanted to bring his love for cooking down the Peninsula. Gator’s Neo-Soul Cafe in downtown San Mateo was the result, which opened one month ago offering a healthier version of Southern food through a California vision.

Thompson was born in Oakland to parents originally from Arkansas. At 8 years old, Thompson woke up one day and made spaghetti and fried chicken. As the story goes, he loved cooking ever since.

Thompson became a professional cook at 14 years old, taking jobs at the Hungry Hunter and Holiday Inn until he found himself and a noteworthy restaurant at the Beverly Hills Hotel. Thompson — who cooked mostly Italian food through the years — made a name for himself in San Francisco with his California Creole cuisine at Alcatraces in Noe Valley. The restaurant closed in 2003, but drew in customers willing to wait three hours for a dish.

Getting to the root of Southern food inspired Thompson to go through the South trying food from all the different states, the backwoods, hole-in-the-wall style to bring to California and make his own. In 2006, Thompson returned to have gastro-bypass surgery at Stanford University. He became the spokesperson for healthier eating, evening penning a cookbook on the topic.

It was Thompson’s fiancé Mary Ann Pagliaro who suggested moving his meals down the Peninsula. The couple has four children between them. Each kid’s name is attached to his or her favorite dish. That’s what Thompson associated with people growing up. Aunt Gertie Bea loved fried chicken, and anyone who comes into his place will know this.

A down-home atmosphere is Thompson’s number one priority for his customers. The melted butter walls — literally the color’s name — are accented with artwork from the Civil Rights Museum. Tables feature cotton plants and flowers for decor and copper and brown accents fill the space. Even a toothbrush awaits customers in the rest room. Thompson provides individually wrapped toothbrushes because when you go to a friend’s house and use the rest room, you’ll see toothbrushes.

"I’m just another friend,” he said with a big smile, "one who cooks.”

Tables don’t offer salt and pepper shakers or sauces. If someone needs that, Thompson isn’t doing his job, he said.

To him, using such toppings means whoever is eating doesn’t like the food. That just wouldn’t be acceptable to Thompson. His menu will change seasonally, to correspond with fresh produce. Soon, his chef table – a $125 per person five-meal taster dinner with wine pairings – will become a reality. Later this year, the back of the restaurant will morph into a barbecue deli, where everything is served by the pound, allowing customers to eat only what they can handle.

For Thompson, it’s all about creating a home atmosphere. The restaurant his home, the staff, his family. He wants to do his best to know customers by name and create a place that is inviting to anyone, from anywhere, dressed anyway.

"I want you to feel comfortable to go grab a beer,” he said. "I’m going to charge you for it, but if you want it, go get it. And if someone wants to talk to me, all they have to say is, ‘Hey Gator!,’ and I’ll be there.”

Gator’s Neo-Soul Cafe is located at 129 S. B St., San Mateo, 685-8100. Brunch is served Sundays from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Lunch is served Tuesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner is served from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Live music is featured Friday and Saturday nights and during Sunday brunch. For more information visit www.gatorneosoul.com.

Heather Murtagh can be reached by e-mail: heather@smdailyjournal.com or by phone: (650) 344-5200 ext. 105.