Chasing Mavericks: Film portrays the life of notorious surfer Jay Moriarity

The extreme exertion of riding 40-foot waves is known to few, yet for those who brave the experience, surfing is inherent to their being.

The breaks at Mavericks beach in Half Moon Bay lay dormant for much of the year, but when the winter swells pick up on the Northern California coast, giants emerge from the untamable vast of the ocean.

In 1994, 16-year-old Jay Moriarity was caught on camera suffering one of the craziest wipeouts the world had seen. Tumbling down a wave standing nearly four stories tall, the teen experienced what all big wave surfers experience; the washing machine effect of being held down and tossed around below the massive waves above. Wiping out is cardinal to big wave surfing, and those who brave Mavericks are no exception.

The story of Santa Cruz native Moriarity is one of bravery, endearment and soul. The film "Chasing Mavericks” hits the big screen this weekend in a re-creation of Moriarity’s inspiring legend. The Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay surf communities revere the young surfer who had an untimely death while free diving in the Maldives a day before his 23rd birthday.

Up-and-coming actor Jonny Weston, 24, plays the role of Moriarity. After reading the script, he felt compelled by the chronicle following a young man struggling with familial relationships and finding solace in his mentor, avid Mavericks surfer Frosty Hesson, played by Gerard Butler. Amidst the struggles of love, loss and the attempts of his peers to lead him astray, Moriarity determines to stay true to his values.

When approached by Moriarity, Hesson is initially hesitant as the training to conquer Mavericks is reliant on mental, emotional and physical trials. The pinnacle of the film’s emotion relies on the bond between Moriarity and Hesson. Started as a pupil and mentor relationship, the kinship morphs into a father and son supporting one another in their quest.

The land-bound scenes likely came with ease in comparison to the perils of swimming in 48 degree water facing 40-foot waves, Weston said. Preliminary examination of the waves compares to looking into the eyes of a beast; after initial shock and fear comes recognition of an underlying beauty, Weston said.

Jeff Clark was the first man to ride the momentous waves once known to few. His years of experience and deduction of the seemingly irrational modulation of the waves allowed him to create the annual surf competition Mavericks Invitational that’s attended by 30,000 people, Clark said.

"[Mavericks] is really dangerous and it’s really big. People come here from all over the world to challenge it,” Clark said.

The cinematography in the film is second to none; surfing scenes in "Chasing Mavericks” are engrossing and viewers are left to postulate the labor of the cameramen. The film’s production crew set Clark up with a boat from which he filmed most of the surfing scenes, Clark said. In the climactic portrayal of Moriarity’s hallowing wipeout, numerous witnesses, including surfers, are shown struggling to maintain their composure.

At the time of Moriarity’s death, Clark signed a poster. On it, he wrote "playing at Mavericks will never be the same without you Jay,” Clark said. The young surfer is gravely missed by those who knew him, yet his life is inspirational to all.

"I want them to know that Jay was the most goal-oriented, most aggressive, powerful person that I think anybody had ever met, and he didn’t allow that to stop him from being in the moment and connecting with people every single day,” Weston said.

Creating the big-budget Hollywood movie is meant to entertain and Weston’s guileless demeanor has led him to notoriety; yet it is Jay who he praises.

"All the respect and attention and love that’s being directed toward me is misdirected, because it’s really about the project and about Jay and it’s about the story,” Weston said.

Although he was unable to meet the man he embodied in the film, he made lasting connections with Hesson and Moriarity’s widow Kim, Weston said. The involvement of Jay’s closest confidants allowed Weston to immerse himself in a character he reveres, and he dedicates the film to Hesson and Kim Moriarity. Weston is obliged for his authenticity and fidelity to Jay.

"Jonny Weston was the perfect cast for the Jay movie. It’s about as perfect of a character and he portrays Jay as he was; kind, humble, quiet, fierce when he got in the ocean,” Clark said.

"Chasing Mavericks” is spectacled by the surf cinematography and captivates viewers with sentiments of bravery and conviction. The local surf communities on the Northern California coast abide by the saying "live like Jay.” It is the admiration of the young man and his impressive ability toward positivity in times of trial that make him legendary.

"I just want people to look at the film and say that the most important thing in life is to get to know yourself better and then share it with people,” Weston said.