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comes out in force

LONDON — Britain’s top design talent came out in force Sunday, laying out a grown-up take on feminine power dressing.

JULIEN MACDONALD

MacDonald has revealed his vision of the 2010 woman.

She wears shoulder pads, and big ones.

Models in blinding white power suits strutted down a huge catwalk that looked like the courtyard of a billionaire’s Italian villa. As a massive crowd of spectators sweated it out under the spotlights, MacDonald’s models fired off one look after another, from short white dresses to shimmering brown PVC trench coats.

The show oozed sex, glamour, and control.

Simon Seivewright — a friend of MacDonald’s who teaches fashion at Southampton Solent University in southern England — said it was "nice to see that he’s kept that structured look.”

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON

Androgynous women in starkly cut suits and plasticine shirts? Welcome to Williamson.

The British designer said he was playing with expensive fabrics, higher waists and little crop jackets in an effort to make the collection look more luxurious. Geometrically structured pieces out of metallic peaches, silvers and blues served as a balance to the more free-flowing gauzes and draped looks.

"I like the mix of nature and synthetic,” the rising star told The Associated Press in an interview.

Sprinkled among the collection were crisply colored pieces in fluorescent yellows and coral that were offset with a variety of blue and purple prints. A slim two-piece suit constructed out of an iridescent diamond print in variegating shades of blue and black was among the most striking examples.

Williamson’s spring/summer collection showed the fashion world he was comfortable in his design aesthetic, according to the U.K. Vogue Editor Alexandra Shulman.

"I think he has really stuck to his guns about what he does and he is not trying to pretend to be sort of cool and edgy and kind of goth,” she said.

Williamson made his debut in London, but he was coy about plans for a permanent return to the British capital.

"I will see how it goes and the reactions to this collection,” he told the AP. "You know it is my hometown I would love to show here so we will see.”

JASPER CONRAN

Conran’s spring/summer collection took a slightly sexier turn.

His show looked like a cross between Barbarella and ’50s housewife. Much of the show revolved around the idea of underwear-as-outerwear — with lots of white, crisp pale hues, and hints of soft nude and creamy pink.

MULBERRY

Mulberry gave the catwalk a canine twist Sunday, delighting visitors with a collection of doggy apparel, modeled by a little black pug who waddled back and forth across the Claridge’s Hotel ballroom.

The traditional British heritage brand kept things similarly saccharine for its human clothing, showing off candy-colored daywear, oversized bows, balloon-sleeved jackets and empire waist dresses in layered chiffon.

Also featured in the balloon and carousel horse-strewn presentation area were a swathe of pink prints and re-inventions of Mulberry’s iconic "Bayswater” hangbag.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

McCartney’s sportswear franchise is saddling up to take on the cycling world.

In addition to McCartney’s pre-existing ranges devoted to yoga, tennis, golf and swim, she is now working to keep cyclists, runners and triathletes looking sharp on the track and in the pool.

The sports apparel on display Sunday at London’s Somerset House was made from lightweight, breathable fabrics designed with comfort in mind.