Asilomar — A refuge by the sea

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The tour was called a walking tour of Julia Morgan architecture at Asilomar. It began with a brief history of how this all began. It started with the Young Women’s Christian Association whose goal was “to help girls to be physically, mentally, and spiritually fit.” The Y provided safe housing for young working women in big cities and its branches included employment bureaus and boarding houses which offered recreation, education, meals and the company of other young women. Their annual meetings were often held in campgrounds and other outdoor settings. Beginning in 1900, the Pacific Coast chapter of the YWCA held their annual conference at the Hotel Capitola. But a decade later, it had outgrown the site. Phoebe Apperson Hearst came to the rescue and hosted the meeting at her Pleasanton estate and suggested that the Y ask the Pacific Improvement Company, the Monterey Peninsula’s largest land owner, to donate land. They offered 30 acres near what was known as Moss Beach (Asilomar) if the Y promised to construct $35,000 worth of permanent structures on the grounds within 10 years.

The Y wasted no time and hired Morgan, the first great female American architect, who directed the design of Asilomar’s buildings and grounds between 1913 and 1928. She linked building sites with walking paths, emphasizing nature and local materials. Her rustic approach is apparent when you first pass through the rubble-stone entry pillars and view the dark wood in the lodgings and main buildings. While the accommodations are simple, the main lodge and dining room are magnificent, reminiscent of the best in our national parks. Asilomar contains the largest collection of buildings designed by the famous architect.

The first summer conference camp opened on Aug. 3, 1913. Classes and lectures ranged from the international work of the Y to the power of American public schools. Afternoons were free and every night the girls enjoyed bonfires on the beach. The highlight of the week was the pageant The Ministering of the Gift: starring 400 costumed girls and the Monterey Presidio Band. To pay for its operations, the Y charged the girls $1.50 per day for room and board and leased the grounds to groups sympathetic to its cause when the camp was not in session. In the winter of 1920-21, Asilomar opened year-round in part to keep up with the demand, but also to keep up revenue.

During the Depression, the Y closed Asilomar and put it on the market. Many, including Mrs. Hearst, fought to keep the Y in control but eventually it was leased to the New Deal Works Progress Administration and, after World War II, was almost sold to a funeral home for conversion to an end of life home, and was almost taken over by the neighboring Del Monte Company. Concerned citizens in Pacific Grove formed a “Save Asilomar” committee and successfully lobbied the state to buy Asilomar. In 1952, the State Parks Commission announced that it was interested in buying the conference grounds and nearby dunes which it would set aside forever as a wild and undeveloped area and its bill passed the state Legislature. But Gov. Goodwin Knight vetoed it and said private donations were also needed. Finally, supporters in the Legislature worked with the Y which donated $700,000 and the city of Pacific Grove to manage the grounds. Eventually, State Parks took over the property and hired a firm to operate the conference grounds and lodging business. And this gem still welcomes visitors today.

Sue Lempert is the former mayor of San Mateo. Her column runs every Monday. She can be reached at sue@smdailyjournal.com.