Land of the large

Winter means cooler times and breeding season for elephant seals, which congregate at Año Nuevo State Park on the San Mateo County coast for the season. Lounging on the beach Wednesday morning, the male elephant seals were waiting for many of the females to arrive. Apparently in El Niño weather years, like this one, females show up fashionably late. Until then, the guys stake out the best spots for the circle of life to begin. Viewing the elephant seals until March 31 means taking a tour, one that includes a walk on beautiful cliff tops.

Fifty-five miles south of San Francisco, the state park sits as the largest mainland breeding colony in the world for the northern elephant seals. Through March, elephant seals, sea lions and other marine life comes ashore to rest, mate and give birth in the sandy area off the Pacific Ocean.

To get there, visitors must take a drive down Highway 1, through beautiful coastal views. The entrance, which appears on the right shortly before reaching Santa Cruz, is less than a one minute drive from the parking lot.

Walking tour tickets, which should be purchased online before heading out, can be picked up in the visitors center situated in an old dairy farm building featuring a low planked ceiling and an educational exhibit about the elephant seals sitting on a beach one mile west.

A guided walk it may be, but it starts solo with some direction from workers at the front desk. Navigating a path among high grass that overlooks coastal views brings a bit of confusion but ultimately leads to a staging area with a number of volunteer docents and park rangers.

Guy Pelham, a volunteer docent who is leading tours for his 10th season, takes the lead. Pelham and his wife began volunteering together, particularly enjoying the educational offerings given to volunteers. The park’s proximity to research centers brings a number of experts to the area. Although the elephant seals are often the biggest draw, Pelham noted the wide variety of birds and plants in the area as well.

The elephant seal mating season actually begins in November, when the males begin emerging on land, Pelham explained. Females follow in the coming months and the little ones are born on the same shores. Mating begins about 24 days after a female gives birth. Females return the next season to give birth.

Pelham’s informational talk was interrupted by bellows from the males conserving energy while resting on an out-of-site beachfront, creating a drive from the group to move rather than talk about background.

Moving through the sandy dunes, one notices drag marks where elephant seals have traveled to their resting places. The wild creatures rest loudly, in some cases, nearly snore. Those males farther from the coast are called bachelor males, Pelham explained.

Getting closer to the groups of elephant seals, walkers are informed to stay huddled together. These are, of course, wild beings.

Finally overlooking the largest group of elephant seals on the beach, the size of the resting creatures become apparent. Little ones wiggle along. Larger males take some time to shimmy across the sand, stopping occasionally to rest before moving once more. With few females on land, males were resting, except for the occasional territorial tiff. Given the distance between where visitors stand and the large marine mammals, binoculars come in handy. Docents seem to have them on hand and are willing to share with visitors who came unprepared.

Año Nuevo was named on Jan. 3, 1603 by Father Antonio de la Ascension, chaplain for the Spanish maritime explorer Don Sebastian Viscaino which had gone ashore in Monterey a few days earlier. At the time, Año Nuevo was home to a group of Ohlone Indians known as the Quroste. The land was used as pastureland by missionaries until 1842 when it was granted to a prominent Monterey resident, Don Jose Simeon de Nepomuceno Castro. Castro’s heirs sold the ranch to Isaac Graham in 1851, who sold it to the Steele brothers 10 years later. The Steele brothers turned the property into a successful dairy operation that lasted about 80 years. California purchased the land in 1971.

Elephant seals were first sighted at Año Nuevo in 1955, with the first pup born in 1961.

Elephant seals can also be seen at Año Nuevo’s beaches during the spring and summer, when they come on land to molt. Observation during those months requires a permit.

Seeing the Elephant Seals is only accessible through a guided tours through March 31. Tickets are $7 per person. Entry to the park is $10 per car. To make reservations visit http://anonuevo.reserveamerica.com/.

Heather Murtagh can be reached by e-mail: heather@smdailyjournal.com or by phone: (650) 344-5200 ext. 105.