Cheese that costs more than steak

Why so expensive?

Many factors go into the calculation of the cost of any true cheese. Unlike the qualities of, say, American processed cheese food, the taste and texture of cheese is affected by several variables. The source of the milk, down to what the cows or goats eat, variations in temperature, aging, storage and fermentation process and more. Not to mention, the act of making cheese reduces the original volume of the milk by a factor of 10. So 100 gallons of milk produces roughly 86 pounds of cheese.

Unrelated to the cheesemaking process are other financial factors. The value of the euro to the United States dollar comes into play. So do import tariffs. Parmigiano Reggiano has been subject to a 15% tariff since the 1960s. An additional 10% was added in April of this year, but has since been rescinded.

“Parmigiano Reggiano aged 24 months leaves the dairy at $17 a kilo and is sold here for $45-49. Two-thirds of the added value remains in American companies. Today, with 25% tariffs, we pay over $500 million a year to the U.S. government,” explains Nicola Bertinelli, president of the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium.

She points out when rumors of new tariffs emerged in March, sell-in volumes spiked 40% overnight. “The current retail price for American consumers will inevitably rise further in the first months of 2026, as both the significant price increases at origin and the multiplier effect of the dollar/euro exchange rate will feed through to the market - easily surpassing $55 per kilo.”

Dominick DiBartolomeo, owner of The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills and Domenico’s Foods, shares, “this is literally a one-of-a-kind cheese that has no substitute, so I believe it’s worth whatever price your cheesemonger is charging. The amount of time and the processes the cheese maker has to endure to create a wheel is what makes this cheese carry the luxury price tag it does. Its flavors are so unique, and the ages and varieties of the cheeses make Reggiano hard, impossible to be duplicated.”

The Ferrari of cheeses

In the case of Parmigiano Reggiano, the cheese creation is more akin to that of a fine whisky or wine. Parmigiano Reggiano is one of a few foods specially designated DOP: “Denominazione di Origine Protetta,” or in English, Protected Designation of Origin. That means, to legally call itself Parmigiano Reggiano, it must come from a specific area of Italy.

It takes around 250 gallons of unpasteurised cow’s milk to make two wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano. The milk is added to a starter whey and rennet, a complex enzyme that triggers coagulation. After several hours, the master cheese maker breaks the curd that forms into minuscule granules by hand and cooks everything in a copper kettle for about an hour. The wheels are wrapped in linen cloth and set into a mold.

Each wheel is stamped with a unique marker that records the month and year, origin and factory registration number. A few days later, the wheels are immersed in a saturated brine solution of water and salt, where they absorb the seasoning.

Parmigiano Reggiano is then aged in naturally temperature-controlled caves to perfection over a minimum of 12 to 36 months. Depending on the maker, the aging process can take even longer, sometimes up to 100 months, or even 10 to 11 years. After the initial 12 months, the wheels are inspected by the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium. If they don’t pass muster, all official marks are removed and often the cheese itself is destroyed or discarded.

“Parmigiano Reggiano isn’t just cheese … it’s a legacy. You’re tasting centuries of tradition, meticulous craftsmanship, and a strict DOP process that ensures every wheel is aged, inspected and made under very specific conditions. This isn’t just about flavor, though that rich, nutty, crystalline bite is unmatched, it’s about the time and love that goes into each wedge,” explains Chef Rocco Carulli, owner of the iconic R House Wynwood in Miami. “There’s a reason you can’t fake real Parmigiano Reggiano: the flavor tells the story before you even look at the rind.”

Not just for shaving over pasta

If you’ve never tried true Parmigiano Reggiano, you’re in for a treat. There are only minor comparisons to what most Americans think of when they ask for parmesan cheese. First off, it adds a salty, savory flavor and enhances the overall taste. Instead of shaking a plastic container over your food, shave the cheese into flakes to elevate salads and other dishes, like a Gnocchi alla sorrentina.

Parmigiano Reggiano works well as a snack or appetizer. Pair it with honey or sparkling wine, or break it into small pieces alongside slices of Prosciutto di Parma for a tasty charcuterie.

Grate Parmigiano Reggiano into béchamel sauce before baking lasagna or other pasta dishes, like paccheri pasta. Why not use everything? Chefs say you can also add the rinds to risotto during the cooking process for a deeper flavor.

“I treat Parm like a finishing salt or a secret weapon: it’s not just an ingredient, it’s a statement. Whether I’m shaving it over grilled vegetables, folding it into risotto, or letting it melt into a broth for umami depth, it always brings elegance. At R House, I love using Parmigiano in many ways; a Parm tuile on a burger, shaved to top off a salad, in our truffle parm fries, or in a creamy risotto. We also save the rinds for broths that add depth to vegetarian and meat-based dishes alike,” adds Chef Rocco.

And, of course, you can actually grate the cheese over foods. The bonus is that Parmigiano Reggiano will add a deeper, richer flavor to your pasta, Italian salads, soups and rice dishes than the American parmesan you may be used to.

The grate-est cheese

The Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium estimates that 92% of Americans have never tasted true Parmesan, opting for cheaper alternatives. And they don’t know what they’re missing.

“Parmigiano Reggiano is the single most important cheese in the world, from a culinary perspective,” says chef and noted Italian food authority Gregorio Fierro. “Cheesemakers have been trying to replicate its flavor and characteristics in Italy and around the world, but with limited to no success.” The cost may be high, but the flavor is worth it.