Tomatina opens doors: Restaurant looks to anchor corner of Fourth Avenue and B Street in San Mateo

For Executive Chef Rogelio Jacinto, soft openings are key days to launch the team and work out any kinks before opening to the general public.

“I don’t rush things out and, when we open stores, I like to dedicate my time to develop the staff and get the right presentation,” said Jacinto.

Jacinto played an integral role for all seven locations in the greater Bay Area and is deeply rooted in maintaining the standards and quality of Tomatina restaurants, said Mark Nicandri, senior vice president of the restaurant group. The head chef for the San Mateo Tomatina is Jose Martinez, who trained with Jacinto at the Santa Clara location.

Tomatina was founded in 1998 by celebrity chef Michael Chiarello who entrusted Jacinto to oversee the development of the original menu. Jacinto became the executive chef in 2002 and stayed with the brand throughout several transitions in ownership.

Despite the changes, Jacinto honed a method to producing consistency and quality which helped Tomatina expand. Management already has plans to open its eighth location in Union City during spring 2015.

Jacinto said hiring the right people is crucial to creating a successful restaurant and he knows firsthand how to spot an ideal chef that fits his style.

“When I hire someone, I have them tell me about their favorite dish and how to cook it,” Jacinto said. “I can tell their style by the way they translate and describe in words their favorite dish.”

From the olive oil to the garlic, then sage or thyme, describing the process from beginning to end and understanding that with every step, you build on the flavors — that is the technique that Jacinto said he likes to hear.

Jacinto does not rely solely on the experience or length of time a person has been cooking and said, “enthusiasm and the willingness to learn are more important.”

In the late 1980s, Jacinto had the same opportunities presented to him when he moved to Napa County looking for a career.

“You either worked in the fields or in the restaurant industry and I chose restaurant,” Jacinto said.

Jacinto was a dishwasher at Tra Vigne, a distinguished restaurant in St. Helena, when Chiarello, its owner, took notice of Jacinto’s tenacity.

“I was very lucky and I was very hungry to learn. Michael saw that and basically put me under his arms and took me in,” Jacinto said.

Having started with Chiarello and chefs from the Napa region, Jacinto developed a bias toward using freshly farmed ingredients. While he aims to bring that ideal to all Tomatina locations, he acknowledges that it may pose a challenge as they continue to grow.

Tomatina management evaluates the menu regularly and is aware of the volatile costs and availability of fresh ingredients, Nicandri said.

The menu changes a few times a year to reflect seasonal produce but most dishes are offered year round.

“There will be an uprising if we took some of those staples off the menu,” Nicandri said.

Tomatina offers traditional Italian pasta and entrees such as chicken Marsala and piccata. Pizza is made to order using fresh dough and toppings baked in a brick fire oven.

The restaurant has high unobstructed ceilings and an entrance that unfolds into a modern and urban space. Windows surrounding the restaurant attracts natural light and energy from people passing by on B Street and Fourth Avenue. A line of sleek, wooden dividers separate the main dining area and the full bar that offers classic and signature cocktails.

There is an open kitchen that gives diners an entertaining peek of what goes on behind the scenes. The general atmosphere provides a nice ambiance for both casual and more formal dining. The corner location was long vacant and most recently home to a furniture shop. The extensive renovations took months and included changes to the building facade to bring it more in line with the area’s early 20th century architecture.

Must Tries:

Caesar Salad: A classic and traditional Italian starter and Tomatina serves it fresh, crisp and cold. Good balance between the dressing and greens, Parmesan and fresh-made croutons. Kick up the flavor factor with anchovies.

Pizza Margherita: A thin, bubbly crusted pizza with house-made mozzarella and the simple yet bold flavors of fresh tomatoes and basil.

Fusilli Gorgonzola: Corkscrew pasta tossed with gorgonzola cream, fresh basil, toasted pine nuts and garlic served over a rustic tomato-basil sauce.

Shrimp Cappellini: Angel hair pasta with sauteed shrimp, garlic and capers in a white wine butter sauce , served on a pool of marinara sauce.

Most dishes can be made gluten free

Tomatina Restaurant is located at 401 B St. in downtown San Mateo. For more information go Tomatina.com.