Brussels worth a second look

Brussels sprouts, which garner their name from most likely first being harvested in Belgium centuries ago, are the number one crop at Giusti Farms. The farm has 140 acres laid down from six varieties of seedling this past season, according to John Giusti, with much of it being machine harvested and destined for the freezer section of grocery stores nationwide.

A small amount of it, when in season through early March, can be found fresh on the Peninsula. Approximately 32 acres were, or soon to be, hand harvested and distributed at farmers markets, chain grocers like Albertsons and Safeway, independent grocers and restaurants.

The Giustis, surrounded by acres of Brussels sprouts since they were knee high, love the little globes with the distinct taste. This currently makes them unlike many others. John Giusti has a theory on why they are in the minority.

"Up to the mid 1960s everything was hand harvested and the varieties available were good," said John Giusti. "When everything switched to machine, the industry rushed to find varieties that would mature all at once."

Multiple types of Brussels sprouts exist, explained John Giusti. Machine harvesting, which typically occurs earlier in the growing season, required those varieties that grew faster and, unfortunately, tended to not taste as good.

Over boiling these varieties, said the 42-year-old farmer, which gave Brussels sprouts their bad image.

The varieties grown today, by contrast, tend to be much milder in taste. They come from seeds in Europe, a region of the world which is very picky about their Brussels sprouts.

"The Brussels spouts have to pass a panel of Brussels testers," said John Giusti.

Another thing besides taste to consider in reevaluating Brussels sprouts is the health benefits of these and similar cruciferous vegetables, said Sarah Ellis MS, RD.

Ellis, a registered dietitian in private practice in San Mateo, explained Brussels sprouts may help protect against certain types of cancers. They are low in fat and high in fiber.

"They [also] have more than a day's worth of vitamin C," said Ellis.

The health benefits, of major importance, may not be enough to convince people to pop Brussels sprouts like candy. Good preparation techniques may ultimately decide their public fate instead.

The taste of a good Brussels sprout, when prepared properly, is described as having a delicate nutty flavor, Riley said. Riley, married to Terrie Giusti for 24 years, is a bit of a self-described Brussels sprouts connoisseur. He has been involved in the farm operations for 10 years and even goes so far as to have an occasional leftovers sandwich of the little vegetables with some mayonnaise, salt and pepper.

In preparing Brussels sprouts, the Giustis and Riley will sometimes boil, or steam, the globes for just a few minutes and then serve them, al dente, with a little salt, pepper and olive oil. Other times they enjoy them roasted and mixed with sliced red onions and garlic.

"They're good in a beef or lamb stew," said Terrie Giusti. "I'll take them almost anyway."

Chefs are beginning to find Brussels sprouts, when prepared, can be surprising, if not popular, hits. Lewis Rossman, executive chef at Cetrella in Half Moon Bay, gets his fresh Brussels from Giusti Farms. One of his favorite ways of preparing them is to blanch them in salted water until tender and then roast them until somewhat crispy with some chopped up lemons, smoked bacon, salt, pepper, butter and olive oil.

Rossman, who said Cetrella sells upwards of 20 Brussels sprouts side dishes on a given weekend, said the key is two fold: proper preparation and finding other flavors which complement. When these two functions are met, people are often shocked to find the dish they hated so much as a child can taste so good instead.

"People should think about trying Brussels in a new way," said Rossman.