The allure of olallieberries

We didn’t. And he did. And said it was the most delicious pie he had ever had. It was the olallieberry pie from Duarte’s Tavern.

Now, don’t get me wrong. The apple pie was also delicious. And I should know. I like to consider myself an aficionado when it comes to apple pie, a gourmand by some definitions though I personally eschew such weighty nomenclature.

I vowed that the next time I went to Duarte’s I would try the olallieberry pie. And once I did, I was hooked. I even like it more than apple pie, much to the surprise of those who know me.

And perusing the frozen food aisles at Whole Foods, I spotted a pink package tucked among the other pies. It was from Duarte’s. I could make it at home. And much to the chagrin of my waistline, I did. Several times over the past few months. No need to make the long coastal trip to the Pescadero locale known for its cioppino, artichoke and green chili soup and of course, its olallieberry pie.

But that, it seems, is facing a small bit of gastro-turmoil (my word). The olallieberry harvest was small this year and has been diminishing for the past few years, according to Ron Duarte, the patriarch of the family that has run the James Beard-recognized

restaurant for years.

Olallieberries were developed by U.S. Department of Agriculture engineers in Oregon in the mid-20th century for growing in colder climates. It thrives on the San Mateo County coast and is known for its sweet-tart flavor that develops beautifully when baked in a pie.

"It’s not like a boysenberry. When you make it in a pie, it’s really good. Very good,” Duarte said.

The problem with it, however, is that it is a soft fruit that doesn’t travel very well and has an incredibly short growing season. Berry growers are choosing other varieties that can make the trek to the market a bit better. And this year, the rainy June knocked off many of the blossoms that would normally turn into berries in July.

"We had more rain in June than in January. It was June-uary,” Duarte said.

That means the berries are in short supply and Duarte is thinking of mixing other berries into the pie, or possibly making another pie altogether and calling it something else. Duarte’s has a small patch of berries behind the restaurant that is used to supplement the berries it gets from other growers. But it’s hard to determine what berries are what since the markers have been knocked down, Duarte said.

So it is with the delicate and delicious olallieberry. Engineered, then possibly ephemeral. And sought after by at least one location famous for it and for those who consider it a prize.

Its saving grace may be market forces. As the supply drops, the price might rise, then growers may think about growing some more and that just might do the trick for the famous berry. So for those of you who are with me on this, cross your fingers and pray for a dry June next year. Or else, heaven forbid, we just might have to make the switch back to apple pie.

Jon Mays is the editor in chief of the Daily Journal. He can be reached at jon@smdai-lyjournal.com.