Long-established and still trending: Taqueria La Cumbre celebrates 25 years in downtown San Mateo location

“A lot of the taquerias now are getting into new-age styled burritos. La Cumbre hasn’t changed, and if anything it’s gotten better,” said George Chavez, a resident of San Mateo.

Occupying the same address on North B Street for 25 years, La Cumbre maintains the same storefront in a building that’s hard to miss. Owner Ed Duran designed it to look like a Spanish Mission. Pitched roof, brick pillars and red arches anchor the exterior corridor decorated with stringed lights and Mexican flags. On the wall facing B Street, a mural depicting La Adelita pays tribute to the rich history of the Mexican Revolution.

Inside La Cumbre, which translates to “the top” or “the summit,” feels comforting and familiar. Female staff members wearing red aprons flash warm smiles to incoming guests and regular customers are greeted by their first name. The savory aroma of grilled meat and the sight of colorful ingredients; tomatoes, cilantro, cheese, black beans, refried beans, Spanish rice and avocados activate all the senses.

For customers like Glenn Voyles Sr., the quality and consistency are what keeps him coming back. Passing on the tradition, Voyles now takes his son, a freshman at Aragon High School and a big fan of chicken burritos, after football. “

We come as often as we can, it’s still the best,” said Voyles.

Perhaps the idea of passing on a good thing from one generation to another is the secret to La Cumbre’s success. Preserving the original concept, Duran is careful to protect the legacy of his father, Raul Duran, who is credited with inventing the Mission-style burrito.

In the mid-1960s, Raul Duran operated a meat market in San Francisco’s Mission District, a diverse community of mainly Mexican, immigrant and working class families.

“People worked 14 to 16 hour days back then and they had very little time to eat,” said Ed Duran.

Having been a veteran chef in the U.S. Army, Raul Duran was hardwired with a sense of duty to feed and nourish people. At the time, migrants with minimum wages had few options besides tacos. Considered convenient and affordable, Raul Duran thought the meat-filled corn tortilla lacked sustenance to last the whole day. Instead, he wanted to combine all four food groups into a self-contained meal — protein, dairy, vegetables and grain.

When he realized the traditional corn tortilla was too small and not pliable enough to hold the ingredients, he tried using flour, said Ed Duran.

Tender, juicy, bite-sized pieces of grilled meat; seasoned with savory spices, salt and a hint of sweetness from a thin coating of brown sugar honey glaze, coupled with rich, buttery flavors of avocados and sour cream, married with tangy, refreshing pico de gallo; bound together with melted cheese, and balanced out with rice and beans, all wrapped in a flour tortilla.

Raul Duran’s Mission-style burrito debuted in the original Taqueria La Cumbre founded in 1967 — still in operation on Mission Street, San Francisco.

In 1992, Ed Duran expanded the family business to San Mateo. He hadn’t planned on taking over the family business but, after graduate school and a brief career in the tech industry, he returned to follow in father’s footsteps.

“I turned in my silicon chips for tortilla chips,” said Ed Duran.

For two generations, the Duran family devoted themselves to great food and service. Their relentless commitment to stay true to their original roots is what keeps customers loyal after 25 years in San Mateo and more than 50 years in San Francisco.

While poke bowls, naan pizzas and unicorn frappuccinos bask in the foodie limelight, Ed Duran has no plans to develop a multi-colored burrito.

For more information visit taquerialacumbre.com or call (650) 344-8989