You open the door to the ‘warm yet urban’ San Mateo 31st Union restaurant, and you know it’s a family affair. The locavore, farm to table, gastro pub meets California comfort food, Peninsula mecca, is cozy and industrial at the same time. I was greeted by the owners’ young son who was recovering from a dental experience.
Mom and dad -- David Hunsaker and Susan Drucker Hunsaker -- the owners, soon arrived, and we sat down to discuss all that is their thoughtful, inviting ‘baby’ of a restaurant. Parents of three kids, the Hunsakers started 31st Union seven years ago and are passionate about all that the hard but satisfying work of owning and running a restaurant entails.
Having moved to the Peninsula from San Francisco in the early 2000’s, they set out to create a place where they would want to be. 31st Union pays homage to California and its place as the 31st state in the union; the vibe is entirely Golden State. A big bear flag hangs above the restaurant, along with a wall map of the state, festooned with arrows, each denoting many of the spots where they source their food and beverages. Centrally located on a corner lot, the light is stunning.
Sturdy tables (many with sunny yellow accented legs), rustic woodwork, a cement floor, bar seating and high ceilings give the space an open, airy feel with both modern and homey touches. They have become a community cornerstone; confirmed by my many local friends. When I asked about acoustics David regaled me with all that had been done to optimize sound. Framed pictures -- old black and whites, cherished Drucker relatives’ recipes and kids drawings -- are strategically located, offering a window into a family with deep roots here.
The tantalizing menu is both aesthetically pleasing and has something for everyone. Ninety percent of all their produce, meat, wine, beer and cheese is sourced from California; most from local farms and distributors. Susan, a former teacher, David and their team, are committed to sustainability and feel strongly about dishes that are seasonal. Susan said about tomatoes in January: “why bother”. The constantly changing menu consists of about 12-14 seasonally rotating dishes and fan favorites. Look for inventive takes on well known plates, like meyer lemon and fennel salad on lamb tacos!
They bake their own bread daily and make their own ice cream in house. In winter you’ll find hearty stews and vegetable pot pies. Mainstays and comfort foods like fish-n-chips and mac-n-cheese are crowd pleasers and appealing to the younger set. I appreciate that there is no kids menu; children will find plenty to satisfy and adults will too. The wine, beer and cocktail offerings are robust, and come from around the state.
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David got a little twinkle in his eye describing some of their locally named cocktails like the Santa Cruz Sour, the Mission Street Margarita and the 4th generation Moscow Mule; another nod to their combined deep California roots. He takes his stewardship of both the team and the community seriously and often has the staff visit local farms and take time to experiment and concoct new cocktails. There are seasonal cocktails -- displayed with a sign -- and if a team member makes it to that iconic spot with one of their creations, it is a new a unique twist on the ‘employee of the week’.
David said they have many regulars and with a menu that shifts every six weeks, you are always sure to be pleasantly surprised and happy to find your favorites. Save space for dessert, this time of year a blood orange, meyer lemon trifle is on the menu, along with a rootbeer float and a few other tasty treats. Remember they make their own ice cream and that too changes with the seasons. Now you can enjoy more meyer lemon (you can never get enough of the lemony goodness) salted caramel and soon strawberry and other local fruits. The youngest Hunsaker maintains vanilla is his favorite.
Brandon Breazeale is the executive chef; another native Californian. He’s given a lot of freedom to be innovative and make choices and tweaks to well loved dishes.
31st Union covers a lot of bases. Lunch is served Tuesday - Friday 11:30am – 2:00pm and dinner Tuesday - Sunday 5pm - close. Happy Hour is full of bar bites and libations, and brunch on the weekends is a big draw and includes burgers, housemade quiche, pancakes, huevos rancheros, avocado toast and homemade cinnamon rolls.
But if that weren’t enough to tempt your palate and whet your whistle, the restaurant has a ready-made to go window, perfect for take away. For home or office, the offering is appealing for busy families and the local tech scene. Fried chicken and pastrami sandwiches headline, and quinoa and seasonal salad choices testify to the plentiful options for those who don’t eat meat. 31s Union’s farm to table California fare is also available on doordash.com for delivery.
The 31st Maker Space is connected and located above and next door to the restaurant. This comfortable multi-purpose space can be used for all day off-site meetings, private dining events, birthday bashes, baby & bridal showers and special occasions. The space seats up to 26 people for dining, 20 for off-site meetings (to allow for laptops and elbow room) and 30 people standing. It has a 75 inch TV, electrical strips to support 20 laptops, flip charts and a peg board wall which can be used for modular presentation visuals. There is one private bathroom and a hightop butcher block table which can be used as a bar or presentation desk. You can fill out a form online or call 650-458-0049 for prompt service.
31st Union is a neighborhood jewel and a special spot for all occasions. You’ll be treated as family and treated to some of the freshest most inventive fare on the Peninsula. A meal at the Hunsaker’s restaurant satisfies so many needs these days; a hearty healthy meal, made with thought and love, sustainably, from California sourced producers, and all wrapped up in a cozy welcoming ambiance with a big dash of pioneering spirit; much like it’s namesake. 31st Union - California Dreaming, from farm to table to belly.
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Keep the discussion civilized. Absolutely NO personal attacks or insults directed toward writers, nor others who make comments.
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PLEASE TURN OFF YOUR CAPS LOCK.
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