Pausa Bar & Cookery: Traditional Italian technique with a modern flair

Fusion cuisine is a hugely popular trend locally, often combining traditional dishes from throughout the world into something entirely new. For chef Andrea Giuliani and his partner Steve Ugur however, it means fusing the best of deep-rooted Italian culinary traditions into a menu that brings the country’s culture and history to light for a fresh local audience. All this in a chic modern setting that is still as inviting as grandma’s kitchen, complete with hand-made ceramics, bespoke furniture, and counter reserved just for making pasta the old fashioned way.

As Ugur and Giuliani note, what Americans consider to be Italian cuisine can differ widely from the dishes known and loved by those in Italy. Even within Italy, food and traditions can vary dramatically. What Giuliani seeks to do in his cooking, however, is bring together the various traditions and flavors from throughout the region into one seamless menu, fusing traditional techniques and imported ingredients with fresh, local meat and produce.

“A lot of things have challenged people,” Ugur said.

Giuliani's dishes at Pausa highlight just three to four ingredients on any given plate. This means delicately balancing flavors, rather than relying on huge amounts of cream, cheese and fat to appeal to people’s palates. The result is a menu that’s no less rich and indulgent than American-style Italian food, but far more nuanced and one-of-a-kind.

After being in the restaurant industry since they were teenagers, Pausa has proven to be a dream come true for both Ugur and Giuliani.

“It’s easier to express myself on a plate right now,” Giuliani said.

Pausa, meaning “to pause” in Italian, is a delight for anyone looking to beat the summer heat, particularly during their spritz hour from 5 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily. The experience differs from typical “happy hours” in more than name alone. According to Ugur and Giuliani, Pausa’s goal is to provide an experience that brings to mind what it means to pause in Italy, often centered on a low-proof, bubbly aperitif in the warm, late afternoon. It has proven wildly popular, and spritz hour has led to out-the-door lines. Ugur sees it as a trend away from more typical bubbly, daytime drinks such as mimosas, and toward a more sophisticated, cultured, and unique experience.

“We really want to push people to drink Italian bubbles,” Giuliani said.

In Italy, wine, cuisine and culture have evolved in harmony with one another since ancient times. It’s for this reason that Giuliani and Ugur craft their food and wine menus with equal amounts of care, consideration, and adherence to tradition. That means you won’t find the staples from California vineyards that are available at most local restaurants. What you will find, however, is an expertly curated list of imported wines, designed to complement Pausa’s tradition-steeped food and atmosphere. You will also find the only place in town where franciacorta, a fine sparkling wine from a small region in Northern Italy, is served in its traditional glass. Other signature drinks include the prosecco-based il doge spritz, and the bastardo, in which soda water adds fizz to a brandy and vermouth cocktail (both pictured below left).

Our favorite plates:

Here are some highlights from the menu at Pausa to explore on the next warm afternoon you find yourself craving a “pause,” or for lunch or dinner any day.

Salumi

The most recent addition to Pausa’s menu and perhaps their most ambitious undertaking. Having opened just over six months ago and beginning the in-house curing process not long after, the salumi menu lists hand-made, in house meats up and down, with the exception of an imported prosciutto.

Pasta pappardelle

According to Giuliani, this dish is enough to make a grown woman cry — and he’s seen it. Thick pappardelle noodles topped with duck sugo and hearty shreds of parmesan make for the ultimate in comfort cuisine. As Giuliani notes, one customer was so touched and reminded of home by the dish that it brought her to tears.

Pizza

The crust is often the most overlooked part of American pizza, typically packed with yeast in order to facilitate quick rising and fast production. Pausa’s process uses imported Italian flour and minimal yeast, and the dough is given 48 hours to rise before being baked in an oven powered by oak and almond wood. For an extra treat, try their pizza topped with in-house porchetta and local fresh veggies.

Polenta crusted green tomatoes

While fried green tomatoes may initially bring southern, country-style cuisine to mind, it’s clear that this take on it represents a culture halfway around the world. Served with basil aioli and fresh, in-house pancetta, the dish offers a unique perspective on the rustic green tomato.

Swordfish sausages

Delicately arranged atop a bed of rice and fresh veggies with fragrant garlic and pesto, this seemingly exotic creation is instead surprisingly simple and approachable — and delicious.

Rovesciata di amore

This tiny, blackberry upside down cake is just as packed with flavor as it is with elegant garnishes. Served with a scoop of house-made buttermilk thyme gelato, the flavors meld together into something entirely unique, yet the dish remains a showcase for the simple flavors of the blackberry confection.